The most popular styles of cedar siding are bevel, pattern, and boardand- batten. The style you choose will depend on your preferences and the design of your house.
Bevel siding, the cedar siding most often used, is tapered from one edge to the other. One face has a rough-sawn texture; the other can be rough or smooth. This style of siding is always installed horizontally. The cost of one variety over another depends on the clarity of the wood - that is, how many visible knots and other growth characteristics can be seen - and the length of each piece. Continuous lengths cost more than finger-jointed boards.
Pattern siding includes both tongue-and-groove and lap styles. Tongue-and-groove boards are milled on both edges; the top edge has a thin, narrow shape, which matches a channel cut out of the bottom edge. A few variations in shape are available, but this is one place style doesn’t matter; once assembled, both the tongue and the groove are hidden from view. These shapes interlock to create a continuous cedar surface, which means they can be installed in any direction the framing will support. The grade of wood used will depend on the desired effect, from formal to rustic.
Lap siding boards are similar in the way they fit together; the main difference is that each new board rests on top of the one before, rather than fitting into it. Like bevel siding, lap boards are rough on one side and rough or smooth on the other. And like tongue-andgroove siding, lap boards can be installed in any direction. The most common sizes range from 1 × 6 inches to 1 × 10.
The board-and-batten style uses a surface of wide boards fitted side by side, with narrower boards, called battens, covering the joints. While this pattern could be installed horizontally, it is most often vertical. The widths of both the boards and the battens will depend on the desired look, which in turn depends on the size and style of the house. One variation with a dramatic effect is installing the battens first, creating deep channels between the boards.
Left unfinished, cedar ages to a distinguished silver gray. This look is well suited for fences, gates, trellises, gazebos, and other free-standing features. But applying a surface finish will help those and all other cedar projects look better and last longer.
Contrary to older notions about cedar, it should not be left to weather. Once it does, the cedar will not absorb protective finishes as easily or hold them as well. This can lead to premature peeling, blistering, or cracking in the finish. The longer you wait to finish new cedar, the less effective the finish will be.
To preserve the freshly installed look of cedar, use a finish that includes protection against ultraviolet light - the chief cause of discoloration. Cedar used in wet climates will also benefit from mildew protection, which may be available in the same finishes.
If you want the weathered look but prefer to keep the wood protected, apply a bleaching stain that is formulated for use with cedar. It uses chemicals to create an appearance of weathered aging, but preserves the integrity of the wood at the same time. Like other finishes, bleaching stain should be reapplied at regular intervals. Remember that the point is to protect the wood - and your investment.
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